The Wine Guardian

Description

95pts 

• E. Pira (Chiara Boschis) 2017 Barolo Mosconi

  Monforte D'alba, Piedmont

  Red wine from Italy

  Drinking window: 2025 - 2037

• The 2017 Barolo Mosconi is a powerful, brooding wine. Black cherry, gravel, dried herbs, scorched earth, spice and leather add to an impression of gravitas. This is an especially somber, potent Barolo that needs time to soften. Even so, it will always be a brute. The substantial finish is a thing of beauty. The Barolo Mosconi emerges from the estates oldest vines, which are 70-80 years old, and is aged in barrique.

• Antonio Galloni. Tasting date: January 2021

E. Pira (Chiara Boschis)

Chiara Boschis's 2017 Barolos are among the most succesful wines of the vintage. In 2017, the Cannubi and Mosconi are especially fine, but it has gotten very hard to choose here. Boschis was among the growers who credited anti-hail netting as having the added benefit of protecting fruit from intense heat and light. In recent years, Boschis has settled comfortably into a style that takes the best elements of both traditional and more modern approaches. The wines are aged in a combination of cask and smaller neutral French oak, with a preference for cask for the more delicate wines of Barolo and smaller barrels for the firmer wines of Monforte and Serralunga. "Our most significant work in recent years has been changes in pruning to give the fruit a bit more cover from the sun, which is much stronger than in the past," Boschis told me.

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